A Scientific and Sensory Guide to Authentic Oud Agarwood oil — often called oud — is one of the most falsified materials in modern perfumery. The market is saturated with diluted blends, synthetic reconstructions, and heavily modified compositions sold as “pure oud.” Yet true agarwood oil is unmistakable — not because it is always dark or thick, but because it behaves differently. Understanding how to identify true agarwood oil requires both chemistry and sensory literacy. The myths are simple. The reality is far more refined. 1. Color and Thickness Are Not Reliable Indicators One of the most persistent misconceptions is that pure agarwood oil must be dark and viscous. In truth, authentic oil can range from: Light golden Amber Deep brown Almost inky Viscosity can also vary from relatively fluid to dense. Why? Because physical properties depend on: Species of the Aquilaria tree Resin concentration in the heartwood Distillation duration and temperat...
Botany, Chemistry, Distillation, and Why It’s So Highly Valued Vetiver is often described as earthy, woody, or smoky. But these simple words hardly capture its complexity. Among all varieties, Sri Lankan vetiver is considered one of the most refined and distinctive qualities in perfumery. Darker, smokier, and more mysterious than its Haitian counterpart, it carries a quiet depth that feels both grounding and sensual. But what makes Sri Lankan vetiver so special? The answer lies underground. 1. The Plant: A Grass With Extraordinary Roots Vetiver comes from Chrysopogon zizanioides , a perennial grass native to South Asia. Unlike sandalwood, where the heartwood contains the aroma, vetiver’s fragrance lives entirely in its roots . Above the soil, the plant looks unremarkable — long, green blades of grass. Below the soil, however, it develops a dense, intricate root system that can grow 2–4 meters deep. These roots serve practical purposes: Soil stabilization Erosion...